How to install window frames
Remove the center portion of the old studs and discard them. Most old wood lap siding and sheathing boards will be attached to the studs at each board with one or two nails. This can make it difficult to remove the cutout stud portions. You can usually pry the studs loose at each board but this process can potentially loosen the siding from the rest of the framing.
If this is a problem, you can use the method described below to cut the siding and sheathing boards along both sides of the studs and remove everything together. Newer construction usually consists of plywood sheathing covered with aluminum or vinyl siding.
In these cases the plywood will be attached to the studs at random points making it easier to pry them loose. Otherwise, the cutout method can be used to remove the studs.
Work out the header size for the opening you're making and subtract the width from the total you used to cut the top cripples above. Cut two new 2x4 jack studs to this length. Build the header and lift it into place while slipping the jacks under to hold it temporarily. Square up all the pieces, and drive 3" screws to attach the jacks to the king studs.
Also allow time for finishing the interior wall and installing interior trim. Cut strips of roofing felt or building wrap and cover the bottom of the rough opening. If you have a brick wall, hire a professional mason to cut the opening for you. The window attaches to the wood framing behind the brick veneer with metal masonry clips.
You'll have to purchase the clips separately and attach them to your window jamb with deck screws. Set the window temporarily in place, check for level, and shim the bottom as needed. If your window calls for installing a thick flashing with a piece of plywood at the bottom install it first or raise the window by the same thickness. Tap in shims at the sides, checking for plumb as you go. Don't wedge the shims too tightly, or the jambs will warp. Use the level as a straightedge to confirm that the jamb has not warped.
Make sure the window operates smoothly with the shims in place. Watch the alignment of the sash against the jambs as you move it. Adjust the shims as needed. Pry back the siding and install the felt, building wrap, or self-adhesive flashing. Cut pieces of felt or self-adhesive flashing to fit along the sides. Slip them in behind the siding, fold them over the studs, and staple. Cut a piece 6 inches longer than the width of the opening and install it the same way. Then staple them, working from the bottom up.
Check for level, and add shims if needed. Use dabs of silicone or two 6d 2-inch nails per pair of shims to affix them to the opening if you use nails, pre-drill nail holes. After they are secured, cut them so they are flush with the siding. Here are the steps to follow:. From outside the house, rest the bottom of the window on the spacers, and then slowly push the top into the opening.
Be sure it is right-side up—it may have drain holes at the bottom that allow moisture to drain. Drive a nail partway through the trim at one of the upper corners. Check that the window is level, make any necessary adjustments to the shims, and then finish driving the nail.
Cut two two-by-fours to that length. Nail the jack studs into the king studs, ensuring that the jack studs touch the top of the sole or bottom plate. Cut four of the two-by-fours as the bottom vertical supports. These boards should be three inches shorter than the height of the window sill plate. Nail two against the jack studs, then nail two more in the center section. Measure the distance between the two jack studs.
Use that dimension to cut two two-by-fours. Nail them together as a double window sill plate. Nail on top of the four bottom vertical supports. Nail the window header on top of the two jack studs. Measure the distance between the top of the window header and the bottom of the top sill plate. Cut three pieces of two-by-four to that length. Toenail these pieces vertically in that section. Actively scan device characteristics for identification.
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