Ford power windows

One of the wires should be a blue with either black dots or a black stripe. You can now at this time hookup the door harnesses to the main harness at each end. One should be behind where the battery sits and the other behind the overflow tank.

I recommend using some Di-electric grease in these cause they seem to get easily corroded. There should be a Black with white stripe wire at the starter solenoid end that needs to be wired to the battery side of the solenoid.

On the drivers fender well underneath the voltage regulator there should be a small round connector that has a blue with black dots or a black stripe wire. Just tap this line and run it to the blue with black wire on the harness that I spoke about in step 6. This will be the power from the fuse panel to run the power windows.

In the fuse panel there should already be a location for a circuit breaker for Power windows look at your manual. Insert the circuit breaker and you are done.

You can mount the relay pack for the door locks as well anywhere you can find on the drivers side behind the headlight. Slide the regulator in through one of the holes in the door and let it sit at the bottom. Next remove the tape from the glass again and let the window about half way down. And re-tape it to stay there.

Next slide the arm of the regulator into the channel of the window glass. Now you can remove the tape and let the regulator get in to its position. Next Rivet the regulator to the door. Note the location of rivets. I started with the top one so you could swivel it back and forth to get the other holes lined up. Once you have all the rivets installed hook up the power connector to the window motor. If you have aftermarket locks will need to bend the rod for the actuator to match the angle of the door lock button rod.

Then attach the actuator to the door and attach the rod to the door lock rod. You should notice that the wiring for both the window motors and lock actuators have plastic clips to hold them in place. Insert these into the holes in the bottom of the door. Before you put the door panels back on you need to grease the window tracks. This will make your windows go up and down smoothly. Take a jar of Vaseline and set it out in the sun to get soft.

Take your finger and smear a healthy amount of Vaseline into the track that the window slides up and down in. You will have to move the window up and down to get access to the entire track.

This keeps it from hopping when you roll it down as well as keeping it from dragging going up. Be aware that a few window regulator systems supply 12v constantly, and switch the ground side of the circuit. Check the schematic.

Also, most vehicles have the ability to lock--and deactivate--the rear windows. Check this switch if only the rears are balky. Occasionally, the true problem is a duff motor. You'll have to replace it. Otherwise, you can simply trace the wires until you find the problem.

All windows have gaskets and seals to keep wind noise and rain out. If the window has a slow spot or won't open or close properly, check the gaskets. A gasket that's misplaced or torn can prevent proper operation. If the gasket is loose, or even torn, you may be able to repair it. If the gasket is simply loose, get some 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive at the auto parts store. Clean off the old adhesive with lacquer thinner and reglue the gasket into place. Allow this to dry overnight with the window closed, and be certain you're not gluing the window to the gasket.

If the gasket is torn, you might be able to use a super glue to simply repair the tear. You may be able to judiciously trim a loose corner of gasket away with a single-edge razor blade.

Be particularly careful about doing this on the part of the gasket that sits outside of the glass, because it may admit rain and salt spray to the inside of the door in quantities too large for the door's internal drainage system to cope with. Replacing a gasket or seal with a new part is generally straightforward. If it's not obvious that the gasket is astray, inspect the entire gasket and channel carefully. Look for damage, but also look for such things as pine sap, fossilized Froot Loops or other foreign objects that might make the window stick or bind.

Clean the surface of the gasket and window with lacquer thinner to remove oxidized rubber and scum. There's a fair amount of friction between the gasket and the window glass.

Almost any misalignment can dramatically increase the friction to the point where the motor no longer has enough torque to move the glass properly. Lubricate the entire channel with silicone spray or protectant, because the reduced friction just might get your window working again. It's also possible that the problem is deeper inside the door. If so, you'll need to pull the door panel and go poking around.

Remember to pull the fuse to prevent amputating your fingers. You can use either a rubber wedge doorstop or a couple of feet of duct tape to anchor the glass up while you work. Sometimes the problem is nothing more than a loose bolt allowing the door's inner structure to move around, misaligning the window track.

All bets are off if the door has been damaged in a crash. It may take a long time to get everything working right. Lastly, the mechanism that runs the window up and down may be faulty.

Whether it's a gear-and-sector, scissors lift or cable-operated mechanism, you'll need to watch it moving up and down a few times. Again, keep your fingers out of the works. Sometimes the problem will be a loose fastener or rivet, sometimes a broken or missing bushing. Replace any blown fuses and check the window's operation. Test the window operation in relation to the other windows in the vehicle. If only one window is inoperable but the others work, the problem could be a switch or a failing or bad electric motor.

Switch replacement is fairly easy in most Fords as they simply pop out of the door panel openings with slight pressure from a screwdriver. Unplug the switch assembly, replace it with a new unit and press it back into the door panel. Test the window for operation. Check the window glass for excessive play or signs of a "slipped track. Repair this by removing the door panel turn the armrest bolts and door handle screws counterclockwise, then disengage the pop rivets and removing the motor by unplugging it along with the mount bolts.

Replace the entire window regulator if the hinges and internals cannot be repaired. Replace the motor by pressing it into the window regulator gears, then securing the mount bolts and reconnecting it to the harness.